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The world is tranquil at the top of the Kalimantan lookout. Swirling mist envelops us in an eerie silence, occasionally breaking up to reveal swathes of lush jungle below. Electric blue dragonflies hover on fragrant orchids. Wild deer bark their calls in the dark rainforest around us.

 We have struggled over an hour along a muddy, slippery, leech-infe[...]