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“Vos sos Holandesa?” asked the 89-year-old Chilean caballero over and over again during our stay. My partner and I just passed his house when we realized that we weren’t going to make it to our planned destination, Hornopirén. We felt like we had walked to Mecca and back (in reality we had cycled 40 kilometres, in the mountains, on an unpaved road), [...]
