A bed and breakfast from the past in the Italian Alps
Whether you stop in for a midday feast or a few day’s rest, the cozy Tschötscherhof bed and breakfast in St Oswald, close to Seis am Schlern in South Tyrol will leave you feeling closer to home. Wherever your motherland may be, you’ll feel like it must have functioned a lot like this place, long ago.
The inn is run by an old couple whose health and solidarity demonstrate the gifts of the area. When you pull up to the small cottage tucked into the northern Italian alps, the nonna you never had will come out to greet you. Her husband, also the butcher and chef, will shake your hand solemnly and lead you to the dining room. With a dedicated expression (and in our case, a translator), he’ll tell you how the inn has been in his family for ages. He even grew up in the bedrooms upstairs, helping his family to upkeep the linens and animals.
For any urbanite, this is as authentic as South Tyrolean homestyle privacy gets. With only eight bedrooms (most of which have balconies) upstairs, the kindly couple hosts families and lovebirds looking for peace, tranquility, and the benefit of their excellent homestay. Everything you’ll eat was planted and harvested within a one-mile radius. Dinner features small pitchers of wine grown exclusively in the family’s own vineyard nearby. Trumpets and antiques on the walls tell a story of who the hosts are, making you feel like you’re discovering a past of your own.
Strange but certainly unique is a “farmer’s museum” attached to the house. It’s well worth your wandering. In the wooden garage “museum” you’ll find historic tools from the everyday life of the pre-industrial era. Spend an hour getting lost among the relics and you’ll forget the details of the modern day purse altogether. In its place, bejeweled crowns of the past, carriages and baptismal gowns hang in a dense array of memory.
When you get hungry while exploring the rest of the Alpe de Siusi return and repeat! Nonna is very, very kind and the food is delicious!
*guest post written by Marguerite Imbert